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Eheim canister filter setup

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Post by Biulu Thu Oct 24, 2013 8:42 am

During the annual moving frenzy here in Montreal I picked up an Eheim filter from the curbside. It came complete with hoses etc. but of course without the media.

I want to set it up and fill it with media but don't know how to. The filter comes with some plastic plates which I assume are there to make layers of different media. I know that the biological media normally go in the middle, but where do I put the sponges?

Does the course sponge go in the bottom or on the top? Same question for the polishing pad or fine sponge.

Here are 2 pictures of the filter:

Eheim canister filter setup <a href=Eheim canister filter setup 9109368335_046e585028" />

Eheim canister filter setup <a href=Eheim canister filter setup 9111603582_2304c84e84" />
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Post by Suprd71 Thu Oct 24, 2013 11:57 am

Coarse sponge on bottom, fine on top and as much bio as you can fit in
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Post by Biulu Thu Oct 24, 2013 12:06 pm

Ok, thanks! The plastic 'dividers' that come with it are supposed to go where?

I guess one goes on the bottom below the coarse sponge, and the other one goes where? On top?
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Post by Suprd71 Thu Oct 24, 2013 12:29 pm

The dividers are to separate bio from mechanical media, should you chose to use both sponge and ceramics in the same chamber. I would put the coarse sponge on the bottom, then the divider. If there is room for a bit of ceramic on top of that divider, do that. Dividers always go on top of the compartments.
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Post by Biulu Thu Oct 24, 2013 12:34 pm

This filter doesn't have compartments, it only has the dividers that basically sit on top of the media. Since one of them has little legs, I thought this one should go on the bottom, so it leaves about 1 cm of space between the bottom and the sponge?
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Post by Suprd71 Thu Oct 24, 2013 12:55 pm

Oh, alright then, my error. You would be right then, with the legs on the bottom and dividers to separate media. In a smaller canister I would be inclined to not use the fine pad on top, may just restrict flow? And also be cause to open the canister more often than you should otherwise, as the fine sponge will clog easier. That is just a semi-educated guess on my part, I run big canisters and find this is the case with them.
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Post by Biulu Thu Oct 24, 2013 1:08 pm

This canister is rated for a 55 gallon and will be used on a 20. I know this doesn't mean anything though, but the tank will be understocked with only 6 cories plus it will have plants, which also helps with filtration.

I clean my filters every 3 months and plan on doing the same with this one.
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Post by alexmtl Thu Oct 24, 2013 5:52 pm

Very nice find !
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Post by Sbenson11 Thu Oct 24, 2013 6:03 pm

Free is my favorite price Very Happy 

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Post by dahling Thu Oct 24, 2013 9:07 pm

I use a similar filter, 2213's bigger brother the 2217. The 2213's I'm familiar with has double tap connectors for both input/output and a plastic sleeve to contain all the filter media. It'll still work without the plastic sleeve, the filter media will be layered similar to the 2215 and 2217 filters.

You can download the manual here:

http://www.trilbytropicals.com/EHEIMPARTSHEETS.HTM

This is a much more readable summary here:

http://www.rexgrigg.com/Eheim%20Classic%20Canister%20instructions.htm
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Post by dahling Thu Oct 24, 2013 9:13 pm

Just had a closer look at your filter - it looks like the previous generation filter - 2013. I don't think there's manuals for that, but it should be very similar to the 2211, 2213, 2215 and 2217 classic line of eheim filters.

They run forever - yours was made in "W. Germany"! Very Happy 
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Post by Biulu Fri Oct 25, 2013 7:59 am

dahling wrote:Just had a closer look at your filter - it looks like the previous generation filter - 2013.  I don't think there's manuals for that, but it should be very similar to the 2211, 2213, 2215 and 2217 classic line of eheim filters.

They run forever - yours was made in "W. Germany"!  Very Happy   
Thanks Dahling! Yes, I was told that the 2213 was the model they made after the 2013.

I was actually very happy to see a filter that was made in Germany instead of China! And yes, they do run forever.... I am planning to get some of the quick valves for it. Apparently they should fit.
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Post by dahling Sat Oct 26, 2013 8:03 am

I have an Eheim 2262, the biggest of the classic line.  The old versions has "Made in W Germany" molded into the top lid, my current one has "Made in     Germany".  Those designs must be well over 25 years old and still manufactured in Germany.  I don't believe the new generations are though.  Crying or Very sad
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Post by JayB Sun Oct 27, 2013 4:24 am

Great find!
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Post by charlie1 Tue Oct 29, 2013 3:35 pm

a little trick I use on those filters is to use net type bags ( like the common onion sacs ) to hold each layer of media, makes cleaning so much easier.
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Post by Biulu Wed Nov 06, 2013 2:47 pm

So, I have started to work on setting up this filter. According to the filter media set-up, I am supposed to put first the ceramic rings (biological filtration), then a course filter, then what they call 'ehfisubstrat' which they consider to be their biological filtration and then a fine filter.

So what is the difference between the function of the ceramic rings and the ehfisubstrat?

It mentions further that I could add 'ehfitorf', that means peat, in the space of the ehfisubstrat. However, as about half of the space is reserved for this ehfisubstrat, filling the filter with so much peat seems a bit overdone?

I would like to put another piece of coarse filter pad as the first layer, so basically sandwiching the ceramic rings between 2 pieces of coarse filter pad. Is there anything against this? Would it be a waste of space?
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Post by charlie1 Wed Nov 06, 2013 3:07 pm

ehfisubstrat is much more porous , as such houses a lot more bacteria.
Peat is optional, if you need to soften your water.
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Post by Suprd71 Thu Nov 07, 2013 5:51 am

I wouldnt use 2 coarse pads, a little redundant I think. If anything, a fine pad or floss on top. Seachem matrix and Fluval bio-max are also high quality ceramics.
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Post by Biulu Thu Nov 07, 2013 9:11 am

I already have a fine pad on top. I was thinking about it as my Marineland canister came with 2 coarse pads and I actually like it. A lot of gunk seems to be able to get through the bottom coarse pad and then gets stuck in the second one.
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Post by Biulu Wed Nov 20, 2013 4:30 pm

Today I went to buy hose to install the filter. I filled the canister with tank water and tried to prime it by filling the inlet hose with water. This filter doesn't have a primer,so I thought this would be the best way.

However, I don't seem to be able to get any suction. First I adjusted the O ring and I held the canister upside down to check whether it was leaking or not. It didn't. So, I primed again, but nothing...

I have been trying to screw the hoses on as fast as I could and I can hear the motor running.

What worries me is that the inlet hose is not filling up by itself and I do not feel any suction from it.

Anybody any tips?
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Post by charlie1 Wed Nov 20, 2013 8:29 pm

Did you check the impeller? the shaft are very easy to snap.
another trick I use to prime them is to use a Maxijet power head with a piece 12/16 tube to connect the power head to the output pipe of the filter & while the filter is un plugged , pump tank water through the filter , any air trapped in the filter will be purged & escape at the intake pipe in the tank.
Hope that makes sense LOL
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Post by Biulu Wed Nov 20, 2013 8:41 pm

Thanks Charlie! No, I did not check the impeller. Should I unscrew the cap for that?

I think I might have a minuscule leak at the inlet. Basically where the hard plastic inlet meets the canister.

I will check better tomorrow. If that is the case, it shouldn't be hard to put a little bit of aquarium silicone around that inlet.
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Post by caoder Thu Nov 21, 2013 5:42 am

You can also suck from the outlet to draw in water from the inlet. Once the siphon has started, the impeller at the top needs to be fully submerged in order to pump.
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Post by dahling Thu Nov 21, 2013 7:17 am

caoder wrote:You can also suck from the outlet to draw in water from the inlet. Once the siphon has started, the impeller at the top needs to be fully submerged in order to pump.
+1.

I've had to do that before. If there's air around the impeller, it wouldn't be able to create a vacuum to pump water out. It's not essential, but if you're able to get some eheim double tap connectors both for the inlet and outlet hoses, it will make maintenance and maintaining the prime easier. I believe petsandponds sells them.
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Post by Biulu Thu Nov 21, 2013 10:03 am

I let it stand overnight and it is indeed a small leak where I thought it was. So I will empty the canister, dry it and put some silicone on the outside and inside around the inlet.
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